What’s so amazing to everyone who goes on these whale watching safaris in Baja is the realization that there is still a place you can go where whales come right up to your boat and allow you to touch them. Sitting at home this may not sound that thrilling but when it actually happens, it’s a memory you’ll cherish forever. But let’s start at the beginning.
The adventure begins in San Diego with a private charter coach ride to Ensenada. From there you board a private charter plane for a beautiful scenic coastal flight right to the beach, landing on a sand runway at San Ignacio Lagoon. The fun and upbeat guides meet you and drive you in a school bus adorned inside and out with paintings of whales, dolphins, manta rays and other sea creatures to the beach camp where you pick your own big, clean, heavy duty, walk-in canvas tent
furnished with padded cots, solar powered night light and clothes locker on a firm sandy surface. 
The camp is equipped with sturdy and private solar hot water shower stalls, clean and comfortable toilet facilities, and the main big top dining tent where excellent and authentic Mexican meals are served.
The dining tent also serves as a commons area, a classroom for interpretive sessions with a well-stocked library on the area’s flora and fauna as well as a place to get a snack, a hot drink, cold beer (free) or soda. And it’s where we find out what’s in store each day at breakfast like when the boats will leave on whale watching outings each morning and afternoon. Living on the beach has never been this comfortable.
San Ignacio Lagoon in west central Baja covers dozens of square miles in the Vizcaino Desert Reserve, part of the United Nation's Biosphere Reserve Program. It is one of the most unusual, undisturbed habitats on the Baja peninsula. The lagoon's mouth to the Pacific is far enough away that you are protected from the ocean swell. And with no predators in the lagoon this area makes a perfect nursery for the birthing of young California Grey Whales, an undisturbed breeding ground for adults, and the perfect location for a whale watching safari.
When gray whales were hunted in the late 19th century the whalers nicknamed them devil fish for their ferocious fighting behavior but as they swim around our skiffs with such ease and grace it's easy to see why we now consider them gentle giants. As the local Mexican guides of our 25’ outboard powered skiffs, approach the whales slowly and calmly, these giant mammals are drawn to us out of curiosity and what frequently follows can be one of the most remarkable days in anyone’s life.
Often a whale comes right alongside, looking at us with its tennis ball sized eyes and covering us with the spray from its spout getting a rise from the group. When they come to the boats, there is often an opportunity to reach over the side to touch them. If you are lucky enough to make contact with the cold, soft, leathery skin of a Gray Whale it is a moment I guarantee you’ll hold on to for the rest of your life.
There’s just nothing like the experience of a 6o’ whale moving under your skiff, knowing exactly where it is, never touching (or maybe occasionally giving it a love bump), and lifting its head up out of the water so you can scratch its nose. This is not an unusual happening and yet every time it occurs everyone in the boat gets giddy with excitement.
Twice a day the skiffs leave camp for a 10 minute drive into the lagoon where the whales are. You can expect to see them “being themselves” lolling at the surface, diving and feeding, “spyhopping” to see where they are and spouting as they move from one part of the lagoon to another. The skiff drivers and guides show you around always in search of a group of whales near the surface which may be approached slowly and calmly. When you get your chance the guides position the skiffs where the whales often come over to take a look at us. When they come to the boats there is usually the opportunity to reach over the side to touch them.
Back at camp lunch is waiting and after a couple of hours of being on the water learning about the natural history of the lagoon and the whales and fish and bird life we head back for something to eat and a welcome break before the afternoon outing. After lunch there is time to beach comb, read and relax, pick up a volleyball game or even take a sea kayak for a paddle in the nearby mangrove. This also makes a delightful break from being out on the water if you like and mornings are especially good for birding.
We really love the nature and style of these trips. They are well run, fun, exciting, rewarding, and comfortable. They’re set in an undisturbed coastal setting you’d be unlikely to find yourself in if the amenities weren’t provided. And they’re not unlike a river trip. Just easier and more comfortable in a base camp setting.
We love to share our experiences from this trip so if the spirit moves you, just give us a call with any questions. We’re happy to speak with you.
By Tim Whitney
